Inside Ferragamo’s Resort Footwear Collection
Not too way back, Paul Andrew, the British shoe designer who now lives in New York City, discovered himself sitting in a large Gothic palace in Florence, Italy, virtually completely full of shoes. “There had been over 15,000 pairs,” he recalls, nonetheless bemused. Frescos—faded from time however no much less transcendent—sprawled above his head, whereas gilded moldings decorated nearly each nook and cranny in sight. It was the Palazzo Spini Feroni, a medieval mansion originally built in 1289 by the merchant Geri Spini that now homes the archives of Salvatore Ferragamo.
Last September, the inventive, who has brownish blond hair neatly combed in the gentlest quaff, joined the vogue house as its new design director overlooking women’s footwear. A 12 months later, he’s turn out to be inventive director across all ready-to-put on, equipment, and leather items, and the like.
Born in rural England, Andrew recalls an early curiosity in fashion. His father labored as an upholsterer for the British Royal Family, whereas his mother delighted with him within the glamour of Christian Lacroix and the like. Within the young boy’s spare time, he’d digest copies of Vogue. Later, whereas studying on the Berkshire College of Art & Design, a professor instructed footwear as his focus. Andrew’s first realized assortment debuted at London’s Graduate Style Week, seizing the eye of veteran vogue purchaser Yasmin Sewell and resulting in olivia pope ferragamo coat an apprenticeship for Lee McQueen. Soon after, Andrew journeyed to NYC, where he launched Narciso Rodriguez’s footwear line, labored for Calvin Klein, and designed for Donna Karan for almost a decade.
In 2012, Andrew started his own namesake line of ladylike, single-sole sneakers that offered a timeless edge with pink-carpet grace. Two years later, he grew to become the first shoe designer to win the CFDA/Vogue Style Fund, and olivia pope ferragamo coat has since been nominated twice for the Swarovski Award for Accessory Design, taking it dwelling the second time round this previous year.
Flower Heel Sandal with gold hardware detail, $1,190.
Out there at Salvatore Ferragamo boutiques.
At Ferragamo, Andrew’s activity has been reinterpretation. How can one revisit the past in new and compelling methods “Everything I do relies on what I’ve found from the archives,” he explains. “The challenge is distilling these very personal notions from 80 years in the past and making them very fashionable for right this moment.” The house’s eponym was famous for a lot of things—Hollywood interest, exaggerated drama, Florentine charm—but perhaps nothing is extra related to this than his innovation in design. Salvatore Ferragamo’s work was architectural and revolutionary, from the crocodile stilettos he made for Marilyn Monroe (“it’s fairly humbling to hold those,” laughs Andrew) to the iconic F-formed heel, for which the founding designer gained the Neiman Marcus Award in 1947. First launched as a sandal, the design references its maker’s title, but in addition mimics the curvature of the letter “F” in cursive. “The method the heel defies gravity, people look at it and ask if it’s even possible to be worn!” says Andrew, who rendered the shoe in a new version for the house’s 2018 Resort assortment.
Flower Heel Slipper with floral print, $495.
Accessible at Salvatore Ferragamo boutiques.
Based mostly on an unique drawing by the founder, the reinvented type is barely more underslung and sits a bit increased, says Andrew. “Salvatore was solely in a position to cowl the heel with a seam because it was such an excessive curve that leather-based couldn’t be molded over the form. I had a bit more assist through today’s know-how.” Andrew’s new F Heel joins a seasonal line that very much displays his ultimate effort for the fashion house: reconciling the future with the past.
As a creative, Ferragamo was often fascinated by floral motifs; in homage Andrew revisited the Covent Garden flower markets of his youth to search out Resort inspiration. The images he took there grew to become the idea of the graphic printed silks in the collection, meant to additionally reference the house’s own iconic scarves. Andrew additionally reconsidered Ferragamo’s 1939 Flower Heel silhouette. “It’s grow to be essentially the most main inspiration to me,” he smiles. “The heel proportion has been reworked and now comes in stiletto and block heel variations. It’s also being used on buttons in ready-to-wear and on baggage.”
“F” Wedge in blue satin and gold galvanized heel, $1,600.
Accessible at Salvatore Ferragamo boutiques.
With lively purples and lush greens, Ferragamo’s color palette this season is more vibrant than ever. The iris flower, which details Andrew’s prints, is a logo of Florence, yes, however perhaps is also emblematic of the vogue home on this new chapter. “I’m honing in on sophistication,” says the designer, “but also amusement. Salvatore was such a brave designer.