Inside Ferragamo’s Resort Footwear Collection
Not too way back, Paul Andrew, the British shoe designer who now lives in New York Metropolis, found himself sitting in a big Gothic palace in Florence, Italy, virtually fully stuffed with shoes. “There have been over 15,000 pairs,” he recalls, still bemused. Frescos—faded from time however no much less transcendent—sprawled above his head, while gilded moldings decorated nearly every nook and cranny in sight. It was the Palazzo Spini Feroni, a medieval mansion initially built in 1289 by the service provider Geri Spini that now houses the archives of Salvatore Ferragamo.
Final September, the creative, who has brownish blond hair neatly combed in the gentlest quaff, joined the fashion house as its new design director overlooking women’s footwear. A yr later, he’s grow to be artistic director throughout all prepared-to-put on, accessories, and leather items, and the like.
Born in rural England, Andrew recalls an early interest in style. His father labored as an upholsterer for the British Royal Household, whereas his mother delighted with him within the glamour of Christian Lacroix and the like. Within the younger boy’s spare time, he’d digest copies of Vogue. Later, while studying on the Berkshire College of Artwork & Design, a professor instructed footwear as his focus. Andrew’s first realized collection debuted at London’s Graduate Fashion Week, seizing the attention of veteran vogue buyer Yasmin Sewell and leading to an apprenticeship for Lee McQueen. Soon after, Andrew journeyed to NYC, where he launched Narciso Rodriguez’s footwear line, worked for Calvin Klein, and designed for Donna Karan for almost a decade.
In 2012, Andrew started his personal namesake line of ladylike, single-sole sneakers that supplied a timeless edge with crimson-carpet grace. Two years later, he grew to become the primary shoe designer to win the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund, and has since been nominated twice for the Swarovski Award for Accessory Design, taking it dwelling the second time round this past yr.
Flower Heel Sandal with gold hardware element, $1,190.
Out there at Salvatore Ferragamo boutiques.
At Ferragamo, Andrew’s activity has been reinterpretation. How can one revisit the previous in new and compelling ways “Everything I do is based on what I’ve found from the archives,” he explains. “The problem is distilling these very private notions from eighty years in the past and making them very trendy for today.” The house’s eponym was well-known for a lot of things—Hollywood curiosity, exaggerated drama, Florentine charm—but maybe nothing is extra related to this than his innovation in design. Salvatore Ferragamo’s work was architectural and revolutionary, from the crocodile stilettos he made for Marilyn Monroe (“it’s fairly humbling to carry those,” laughs Andrew) to the iconic F-shaped heel, for which the founding designer gained the Neiman Marcus ferragamo bkack Award in 1947. First launched as a sandal, the design references its maker’s title, but additionally mimics the curvature of the letter “F” in cursive. “The way the heel defies gravity, people have a look at it and ask if it’s even doable to be worn!” says Andrew, who rendered the shoe in a brand new version for the house’s 2018 Resort assortment.
Flower Heel Slipper with floral print, $495.
Obtainable at Salvatore Ferragamo boutiques.
Based on an unique drawing by the founder, the reinvented type is slightly more underslung and sits a bit increased, says Andrew. “Salvatore was solely able to cowl the heel with a seam as a result of it was such an excessive curve that leather couldn’t be molded over the shape. I had a bit more assist by means of today’s technology.” Andrew’s new F Heel joins a seasonal line that very a lot displays his ultimate effort for the trend house: reconciling the longer term with the past.
As a inventive, Ferragamo was often fascinated by floral motifs; in homage Andrew revisited the Covent Garden flower markets of his youth to seek out Resort inspiration. The photographs he took there turned the basis of the graphic printed silks in the collection, meant to additionally reference the house’s own iconic scarves. Andrew also reconsidered Ferragamo’s 1939 Flower Heel silhouette. “It’s develop into essentially the most main inspiration to me,” he smiles. “The heel proportion has been reworked and now comes in stiletto and block heel variations. It’s additionally getting used on buttons in ready-to-put on and on luggage.”
“F” Wedge in blue satin and gold galvanized heel, $1,600.
Available at Salvatore Ferragamo boutiques.
With lively purples and lush greens, Ferragamo’s shade palette this season is extra vibrant than ever. The iris flower, which particulars Andrew’s prints, is a logo of Florence, yes, however maybe also is emblematic of the trend house on this new chapter. “I’m honing in on sophistication,” says the designer, “but additionally amusement. Salvatore was such a brave designer.